History
Indra Jatra (also called Yenya, meaning "Kathmandu festival" in Newari) is the largest and most spectacular street festival in the Kathmandu Valley, observed over eight days in late August or September. It celebrates Indra — the Vedic god of rain and the king of the heavens — who, according to legend, was caught stealing flowers for his mother in the Kathmandu Valley and held captive by the city's residents until his mother came to retrieve him.
The festival has roots going back to at least the Licchavi period (4th–9th century AD) and was formalised during the Malla kingdom as both a religious obligation and a display of royal power. The chariot procession of the Living Goddess Kumari was added by King Jayaprakash Malla in the 18th century as part of a political-religious compact.
Significance
The festival opens when a massive ceremonial pole (Yosin) is erected in Kathmandu Durbar Square, and closes when it is lowered eight days later. In between, three golden chariots — carrying the Living Goddess Kumari, the god Ganesh, and the god Bhairav — are pulled through the streets of the old city by throngs of devotees.
The most awaited moment is the appearance of Kumari herself — a pre-pubescent girl selected from the Shakya caste who is believed to be the living incarnation of the goddess Taleju. She emerges from her palace in Durbar Square and blesses the crowd from the chariot. The prime minister of Nepal receives a tika (blessing mark) from the Kumari at the start of the festival.
What to Expect
Indra Jatra begins with the raising of the Yosin pole at Durbar Square — a feat of traditional engineering performed by hundreds of men. The Lakhey (demon mask dance) performances happen nightly and are among the most theatrical in Nepali culture. The Kumari chariot procession happens on three consecutive evenings — position yourself on the route through Indra Chowk or Ason for the best view. The entire old city is illuminated, and the atmosphere is electric. Book accommodation in advance — this is peak tourist season in Kathmandu.