History
Ghode Jatra, the "Festival of Horses," is a uniquely Nepali tradition rooted in a legend about the demon Tundi, who terrorised the people of Kathmandu. According to the myth, Tundi was finally slain and his body buried at what is now Tundikhel — the great open parade ground in the heart of the capital. Each year, galloping horses race across the ground to symbolically trample his spirit and prevent it from rising again.
The festival was institutionalised centuries ago during the Malla period and has continued under subsequent rulers. Today it is one of the most impressive military displays in Nepal, with the Nepal Army taking a leading role in the ceremonies.
Significance
Beyond its mythological roots, Ghode Jatra is a celebration of the arrival of spring and the Nepali New Year season. It is one of the few occasions when the general public can watch a full military parade with cavalry, marching bands, and aerobatic displays by the Nepal Army's air wing.
The festival also has an astrological dimension — it is timed to coincide with the new moon of Chaitra (March–April), a propitious moment in the Nepali calendar.
What to Expect
The parade at Tundikhel begins in the afternoon and runs for several hours. Horse races are the centrepiece — jockeys ride bareback at full gallop, and the atmosphere is electric. There are also equestrian acrobatics, military band performances, and appearances by senior government and military officials. Arrive early to secure a good viewing spot along the fence line. Photography is permitted from designated public areas.